Lakeville Veterinarian gets certified in Chiropractic care for:

• Dogs
• Cats
•  and Horses

Contact for more information on Chiropractic Care for Dogs

Dr.  Patrick Glidden has been certified by the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA) through the Animal Chiropracic Certification Commission (ACCC).

Life is full of distractions, especially for a puppy or dog! When you have a dog who won’t pay attention to you while on walks or at the park, or even at home, an obedience class is definitely in order. Try your nearest obedience training clubs, which have classes taught by knowledgeable and dedicated volunteers. These classes are often the best deals in town. You can find the clubs nearest you on the AKC website, where they are listed by state.

Besides club classes, there may be other training businesses in your area. Dog trainers are not licensed, and you certainly don’t want to take your dog to a situation that would cause harm. Your veterinarian may be able to recommend reputable classes. A veterinary behavior specialist in the area would be an excellent expert to ask about the reliable professional trainers near you.

Following are instructions on how to get and keep your dog’s attention around distractions such as other dogs.

Dog Attention, Control around Other Dogs

For handling your dog around other dogs, an excellent method comes from Linda O’Hare Newsome. This moving exercise works better than standing still. You teach the dog to give you eye contact when you say the dog’s name. Very soon, you can get and hold the dog’s attention anytime you wish. With attention–eye contact and movement–on you, the dog simply has no ability to pay attention to anything else at the same time.

Here’s how you do it.

1. Have treats on your person (later you may use a toy instead, but it helps to start with tiny, tempting treats, lots of tiny pieces), but keep them out of the dog’s sight. To initiate the attention sequence, say “[Dog's Name]!” and YOU MOVE ABRUPTLY away. If you want to say “Heel” or “Come” or “Front” or “By Me,” that’s fine too. The main thing is, say the name–this is going to become the word on which the dog will learn to look at you–then MOVE.
2. When the dog moves with you, quickly PRAISE. This is where you would use a clicker if you wish to use that method, but a word of praise is fine, too. Then instantly whip out a treat and give it. Do not show the treats until you are ready to give one. This prevents the treat from becoming, in the dog’s mind, an actual part of the command–or a bribe. Each time you give a treat, align it between the dog’s eyes and yours. You want eye contact with that treat. Soon you will find the dog seeking your eye contact. Always praise that action, and it’s fine to give the dog a “free” treat for doing it.
3. Okay, you’re not done. When you do this sequence, always do at least 3 to 5 in a row. That means each time you 1) say the name, 2) move, 3) praise, 4) whip out a treat, and 5) give it. This doesn’t necessarily take up a bunch of space, since you want it all to happen very fast. The movement is not over a great distance. You can move one direction the first time, back the other way the second time, etc. But always do at least 3 to 5 repetitions in a row before you release the dog’s attention. This is what teaches a dog to SUSTAIN that attention on you until you release it.
4. Practice this exercise everywhere, including at obedience class. You can do this with a toy, especially once you have taught it to the dog. But don’t rush to get away from the food. Food is the easiest thing to deliver with this split-second timing, and will greatly help you in establishing the pattern of attention.
5. By always praising before you give the treat, you are also building up your praise in the dog’s mind. This will allow you later to praise at that correct moment, and be able to deliver the treat (or toy) a bit later (when you have to walk across the room to get one, for example) while the praise maintains the continuity in the dog’s mind between the action and the reward.

This ability to get the dog’s attention any time you want it will serve you when working around other dogs. Not only will you be able to control your dog, but if you are consistent about bringing your dog’s attention to you and away from other dogs at the first sign of getting too interested, you will find that the sight of another dog will start causing yours to look at you! Praise this, of course!

Many people believe that socializing a dog with other dogs is for the goal of creating a dog who can just play with any dog, anywhere, anytime. This is not a realistic goal for many dogs, especially after maturity. A much more reasonable goal is to teach your dog to pay attention to you when working around other dogs, and to ignore them. You’ll notice at dog shows that this is how the experienced handlers manage their dogs. It’s not like a big dog park with all the dogs playing together.

The attention exercise is not extremely time-consuming. Just take a few moments and do it in every location where you go together. It’s surprising how quickly it becomes habit for the dog to look at you when you say his or her name–and equally habit for you to positively reinforce this response every time. People will comment on how much your dog loves you and the obvious bond between the two of you–and they’ll be right!

Date Published: 7/10/2001
Date Reviewed/Revised: 1/14/2007

Copyright 2007 – 2010 by Kathy Diamond Davis. Used with permission. All rights reserved.

Aggression: When Should I Worry?

We often value protection (aggression) against intruders, and expect our dogs to make judgments beyond their experience, training or innate ability. Since a dog who bites humans may go months between bites, people tend to downplay the significance of aggression. The fear of losing your dog can also contribute to denial and failure to deal with the problem.

Risk Factors

It’s impossible to list every behavior or situation that may be reason for concern, and if something does arise that makes you wonder, be sure to consult your veterinarian. When indicated, your veterinarian can help you find a veterinary behavior specialist for an expert evaluation of the dog and the situation.

This precaution can save lives, and should be taken sooner rather than later whenever there are questions of safety. Do not wait for someone to be bitten. If your dog does any of the following, it’s time to look for expert help in person:

1. Growls, barks, snarls, snaps or lunges at people on walks
2. Shows aggression toward visitors to your home.
3. Shows aggressive behaviors in your back yard, including aggression toward children or adults on the other side of the fence or the meter reader.
4. Has killed one or more cats.
5. Has been kept on a tie out as a means of confinement, and is showing signs of aggression. (A tie-out is not a safe method for confinement—aggression is a common result.)
6. Aggressively guards food or toys.
7. Shows aggression toward people who approach the crate when the dog is in it.
8. Shows aggression toward veterinarian, groomer, or family members when they groom or otherwise handle the dog.
9. Shows any aggressive behavior toward a member of the household.
10. Fighting among household dogs to the point of injuries.

Much of the time you can save your dog by early intervention. Sometimes you’ll save a human from a serious injury. Either way, it’s essential to act on the warning signals of aggression by getting the right help in a timely manner.

Times to be Watchful

Experts are aware of several risk factors for dog aggression that most people don’t know to watch for. Knowing when to be careful can prevent a good dog from getting caught in a bad situation.

A female dog with young puppies goes through a hormonal stage of serious protectiveness. One day the family children handle the puppies in the nest, and suddenly the next day the mother dog cannot tolerate this intrusion. Do not allow children free access to a mother with pups.

Male dogs commonly become overprotective of female dogs, especially if the female is in heat or just generally neurotic. You reduce the risk of your male dog biting people by neutering him, preferably by the time he’s a year old. Spaying the female reduces the risk of her inflicting injuries on children since heat cycles and puppies in the nest are the times she poses highest risks of biting.

Dogs need human help to learn to inhibit their bite with people. Normal play between two dogs involves mouthing that will injure a person. Dogs have no hands, so it’s normal for them to grasp and otherwise act with their teeth. It’s up to humans to teach dogs to inhibit the bite with people, and this training needs to start in puppyhood.

When raising a puppy, get expert help with bite inhibition training—puppy classes are essential for all pups. If you’re adopting an adult dog, get expert help to evaluate the dog’s bite inhibition. Do not adopt a dog who shows a lack of this essential conditioning, especially if your dog will be around children.

A puppy removed from the mother and littermates misses some of the bite inhibition training from other dogs at a critical development stage. This experience is essential for a puppy to grow into a dog who will be safe around humans. Do not adopt a puppy removed from the litter prior to 7 weeks of age (8 weeks or older is preferred, but 7 weeks is the minimum age), especially if your dog will ever be around children.

A dog new to the home can pose special risks. It’s impossible to thoroughly evaluate a dog’s temperament in one test, or even over a period of a couple of weeks in foster care. The dog’s behavior will change with maturity and also will be different with your family than in some other situation. Be observant and careful with any new dog.

Children under 2 months of age are at increased risk when left alone with dogs. No child under school age should ever be left alone with any dog, but dogs show a more dangerous perception of children under the age of 2 months, and some babies have been killed. Babies, preschool children, and senior citizens are the humans at highest risk of death from dog attacks.

Dogs in pain are at increased risk of injuring someone when the person approaches in a way that causes the dog to fear being hurt. Dogs tend to hide signs of pain as a survival instinct (showing weakness in the wild could get an animal killed), so it’s essential to be watchful for pain. Protect your dog from being hurt so the dog will not feel the need to self-protect.

Dogs are often labeled “fear biters.” This is an unfair label that makes it seem fearfulness automatically makes a dog dangerous. ‘It is true, though, that dogs who bite in fear often bite people who act in ways that can frighten dogs, even if the actions were reasonable from a human point of view. Such dogs can face a terrible price for biting, and bite wounds can be permanently disfiguring or worse. Protecting dogs from situations in which their fear provokes a bite is important. In managing our dogs, we need to avoid handling that frightens them. No one thinks straight when scared, including a dog.

When in Doubt…

Some states now have criminal penalties for people whose dogs kill someone after there were warning signs the people should have heeded. Other results include a lawsuit, having a loved one scarred for life, or losing a child.

Thankfully fatalities from dog attacks are rare, but injuries are common. Everyone with a dog must take seriously the responsibility of protecting people from being hurt by the dog. Whenever there is reason for concern, pick up the phone and make the appointment, starting with your veterinarian and then following through on veterinary advice. It’s the best way to protect your dog as well as the people you love.

The book Fatal Dog Attacks: The Stories Behind the Statistics by Karen Delise is a good starting point for those interested in researching this topic further.

Date Published: 10/11/2004 11:45:00 AM
Date Reviewed/Revised: 3/21/2008

Kathy Diamond Davis is the author of the book Therapy Dogs: Training Your Dog to Reach Others. Should the training articles available here or elsewhere not be effective, contact your veterinarian. Veterinarians not specializing in behavior can eliminate medical causes of behavior problems. If no medical cause is found, your veterinarian can refer you to a colleague who specializes in behavior or a local behaviorist.

Copyright 2008 – 2010 by Kathy Diamond Davis. Used with permission. All rights reserved.

Did you brush your teeth today?  If not, how does everyone else around you feel about it?  As with people, not brushing a dog’s teeth can have some rather negative repercussions in the areas of bad breath and oral disease.

The buildup of plaque, (the chalky bacterial material that sticks to teeth), seems to be a primary culprit in oral disease.  Plaque, once deposited on the teeth, will begin to calcify in a couple of days.  This buildup of  calcium is called calculi.  The calculi trap food and other debris along the gum line.  The gums response is inflammation, (gingivitis).  The inflammation will cause the gums to regress and expose the tooth root that will lead to deeper infections of the bone or loss of the tooth.

Dogs can have varying degrees of problems with their teeth.    Some breeds are more prone to having food buildup in the cheek areas that in turn feed the oral plaque.  Also, the food left in the mouth will start to rot causing that ever so fragrant ‘swamp mouth’ smell.   Conformation of the face, frequent feeding, and chewing behavior can all affect the amt of food left in the mouth after a meal.

Ideally, we should be brushing our dog’s teeth twice daily but once daily in the evening will give you great benefits.  Reality…if we can brush them at least three times per week to keep the plaque from calcifying we can also prevent a large amt of dental problems.

Brushing teeth:

Step one: Purchase a long handle, preferable curved, toothbrush for dogs.  Finger toothbrushes (thimble  looking) are also great if you don’t mind sticking your finger in the dog’s mouth.

Step two: Toothpaste can be purchased for dogs.  Do not use anything with fluoride in it.  Since dogs are not prone to spitting after brushing they tend to swallow more fluoride than is safe.  Your can find pastes have a meat or peanut butter flavor that will reinforce to your pet that brushing is both fun and yummy.  Enzymatic toothpastes are usually recommended

Step three: Brush those chompers.  Initially, your dog may not like to have a toothbrush inserted in to their mouth.  Young dogs are usually easier to start with.  Sometimes you have to use a piece of gauze or cloth until they are familiar with tooth brushing.  Start with just cleaning the front teeth until your dog accepts your efforts.  Focus most of your attention when cleaning towards the teeth in contact with the cheek.  The largest portions of problems are usually focused in this area.  If you have trouble cleaning the inside part of the teeth it is OK.  The body has a built in toothbrush called the tongue.  The amt of plaque buildup on the tongue side is usually markedly less than the cheek side due to the increased contact with the tongue.  Try, but do not feel bad if you dog never allows you to clean this area.

The toothbrush should be placed in the mouth on a 45 degree angle to the gums to reach under the gingiva a little.  Soft bristles and a gentle oval brushing pattern will help to

optimize the cleaning.

For dogs that do not allow for oral brushing, there are a couple of other options.  Oral rinses are available that can be used as a mouthwash to decrease bacterial load in the mouth.  Even a water rinse of the cheek pouches with a sport bottle can decrease food residues in the mouth.  Dental sealants can be used on a weekly basis and are easy to apply and can be purchased from your veterinarian.

In closing, home dental care will reap rewards far greater than sweet smelling breath.  You will also be protecting your pooch from potentially life threatening problems like kidney and heart disease.  So keep those teeth brushed!

Location
Most people are inclined to place the litter box in an out-of-the-way spot in order to minimize order and loose particles of cat litter in the house. Often, the litter box ends up in the basement, sometimes next to an appliance and/or on a cold cement floor. This type of location can be undesirable from your cat’s point of view for several reasons.

If you have a kitten or an older cat, she may not be able to get down a long flight of stairs in time to get to the litter box. Since she is new to the house, she may not remember where the litter box is if it’s located in an area she seldom frequents. Your cat may be startled if a furnace, washer or dryer suddenly comes on and that may be the last time she’ll risk such a frightening experience! If your cat likes to scratch the surface surrounding her litter box, she may find a cold cement floor unappealing.

Therefore, you may have to compromise. The litter box should be kept in a location affords your cat some privacy, but is also conveniently located. If you place the litter box in a closet or a bathroom, be sure the door is wedged open from both sides, in order to prevent her from getting trapped in or out. Depending on where it’s located, you might consider cutting a hole in a closet door and adding a swinging door. If the litter box sits on a smooth, slick or cool surface, put a small throw rug underneath it.

Types of Litter
Research has shown that most cats prefer a fine-grained litter, presumably because they have a softer feel. The scoopable litters usually have finer grains than the typical clay litter. However, high-quality, dust free, clay litters are relatively small-grained and may be perfectly acceptable to your cat. Potting soil also has a very sort texture, but it’s not very absorbent. If you suspect your cat has a history of spending time outdoors and is likely to eliminate in your houseplants, you can try mixing some potting soil in with her regular litter. Pellet-type litters or those made from citrus peels are not recommended. Once you find a litter that your cat likes, don’t change types or brands. Buying the least expensive litter or whatever brand happens to be on sale, could result in your cat not using the litter box.

Many cats are put off by the odor of scented or deodorant litters. For the same reason, it is not a good idea to put an air freshener or room deodorizer near the litter box. A thin layer of baking soda placed on the bottom of the box will help absorb odors without repelling your cat. Odor shouldn’t be a problem if the litter box is kept clean. If you find the litter box odor offensive, your cat probably finds it even more offensive and won’t want to eliminate there.

Number of Litter Boxes
You should have at least as many litter boxes as you have cats. That way, none of them will ever be prevented from eliminating in the litter box because it’s all ready occupied. You might also consider placing them in several locations around the house, so that no one cat can “guard” the litter area and prevent the other cats from accessing it. We also recommend that one litter box is placed on each level of the house. It’s not possible to designate a personal litter box for each cat in your household, as cats will use any litter box available. Occasionally, a cat may refuse to use the litter box after another cat has used it. In this case, all of the litter boxes will need to be kept extremely clean and additional boxes may be needed.

To Cover Or Not To Cover
Some people prefer to use a covered litter box, however, there are some potential problems with using this type of box. You may want to experiment first to see what your cat prefers.

Potential Problems

• You may forget to clean the litter box as frequently as you should because the dirty litter is “out of sight, out of mind”
• A covered litter traps the odors inside, so it will need to be cleaned more often than an open one.
• A covered litter box may not offer a large cat enough room to turn around, scratch, dig or position herself the way she wants.
• A covered litter box may also make it easier for another cat to lay in wait and “ambush” the user as she exits the box. On the other hand, a covered box may feel more private and may be preferred by a timid cat.

Cleaning The Box
To meet the needs of the most discriminating cat, feces should be scooped out daily. How often you change the litter depends on the number of cats you have, the number of litter boxes, and the type of litter used. Twice a week is a general guideline for clay litter, but depending on the circumstances, you may need to change it every other day or once a week. If you scoop the litter daily, scoopable litter can go two to three weeks before the litter needs to be changed. If you notice an odor or most of the litter is clumped or wet, it’s time for a change. Don’t use strong smelling chemicals or cleaners when washing the litter box as it may cause the cat to avoid it. Washing with soap and water should be sufficient.

Liners
Some cats don’t mind having a liner in the box, and others do. Again, you may want to experiment with the liner to see if your cat is bothered by it or not. If you do use a liner, make sure it is anchored in place, so it can’t easily catch on your cat’s claws or be pulled out of place.

Depth Of Litter
Some people think that the more litter you put in the box, the less you have to clean it. This is not true. Most cats won’t use litter that is more than two inches deep. In fact, some longhaired cats actually prefer less litter and a smooth, slick surface, such as the bottom of the box. The litter box needs to be cleaned on a regular basis, and adding litter is not the way around this chore.

“Litter-Training” Cats
There’s really no such thing as “litter-training” a cat in the same way one would house-train a dog. A cat really doesn’t need t be taught what to do with a litter box. The only thing you need to do is provide and acceptable, accessible litter box, using the suggestions above. It’s not necessary to take your cat to the litter box and move her paw back and fourth in the litter, in fact, it’s not recommended. This may actually be an unpleasant experience for your cat and is likely to initiate a negative association with the litter box.

If Problems Develop
If your cat begins to eliminate in areas other than her litter box, your first call should always be to your veterinarian. Many medical conditions can cause a change in your cats litter box habits. If you veterinarian determines that your cat is healthy, the cause may be behavioral. Most litter box behavior problems can be resolved by using behavior modification techniques. Punishment is not the answer. For long-standing, or complex situations, contact an animal behavior specialist experienced with cats.

Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved. Used with permission.

Separation anxiety can be serious, and can affect any dog in any situation. While some people think it’s “cute” that their dog “loves” them so much they can’t stand to be apart, separation anxiety can be very hard on a dog and the family with whom she lives.

The good news is that in many situations separation anxiety can be significantly lessened by utilizing behavior modification techniques. And, while it does take time and commitment on the pet owners part, many dogs suffering from this can overcome their fears and become terrific family pets.

Identifying Separation Anxiety

One of the major pitfalls when working with separation anxiety is the initial diagnosis. Many of the symptoms mirror other behavioral problems. As a result the wrong techniques may be used in an attempt to cure the “problem” – which can increase the anxiety and make the problem worse.

The first step is to identify the symptoms of separation anxiety. They may appear in different degrees of severity and all may not occur in every pet.

Symptoms of Separation Anxiety

Some symptoms include:

• Urination or defecation only when you are away from home
• Destruction inside the house, typically focused on exit routes such as doorways and windows
• Howling that begins shortly after you leave (more of a howl that a bark.)
• Self-mutilation; chewing on legs, flanks, etc. only when you are gone
• Signs of stress; salivating, trembling, etc. every time you prepare to leave the house
• Signs of stress when crated; including self- mutilation, excessive salivation, destruction of the crate and urination or defecation in the crate

These are some of the more common symptoms of separation anxiety and can appear in any degree and in any combination. It is also true that most of these symptoms can be signs of other behavior issues and may not necessarily indicate separation anxiety.

What to do

If you suspect your dog is suffering from separation anxiety, it is necessary that you contact a behaviorist to help you devise a treatment plan. In the meantime, the following tips may help to ease your dog’s stress:

• Keep your departures and arrivals low key; ignore your dog and quietly leave, come home and let your dog out without speaking to her or petting her initially.
• Try diverting your dog’s attention with a Kong or a sterilized, hollow beef bone stuffed with treats just before you leave.

What to Avoid

The following should be avoided:

• Confining your dog to an indoor kennel or crate and leaving her alone could result in self- mutilation
• Feeding your dog right before you leave could result in gastric upset, causing urination, defecation, or vomiting
• Punishing your dog for being destructive should be avoided at all costs; this can greatly increase your dogs stress level and therefore increase his anxiety about you leaving and returning
• Bringing another dog into the home when your dog is stressed about being separated from you, would likely teach the new dog to become stressed as well

Information provided by Michigan Humane Society Rochester Hills, Michigan

Behavior Help Line (248)650-0127

The good news is, the study of dog behavior is a constantly growing and changing field. We’re becoming more knowledgeable all the time regarding the ways that dogs learn. The down side is, the amount of information out there can be very difficult to weed through.

Which training method is the “right” one? There is not one right way to train all dogs. If there was, we’d all be walking around with Lassie on a leash (and what fun would that be?). There are, however, some things for you to consider when training your dog.

Training Through Positive Reinforcement

Programs based on positive training methods are very simple. It means that you reward your dog for doing what you want them to, and remove an anticipated reward when they do something you feel is inappropriate. The key is that you don’t physically punish your dog for misbehaving. The very latest studies show that dogs learn better when rewarded for doing something right rather than being punished, or corrected, for wrong choice.

Unfortunately, many of us tend to pay more attention to our dogs when they do something wrong, instead of when they do something right. For example, your dog is playing quietly on the floor and you think to yourself, “Whew, a break from the constant energy”, and you walk by, ignoring your dog. Five minutes later, your dog hops on the furniture and you yell at him and push/pull him off. What a fun game to your dog. The result? More couch jumping for the dog and more frustration for you. Had you given him a scratch behind the ear or tossed him a toy when he was playing quietly on the floor he may not have tried the couch game for attention. Just as with children, negative attention is better than no attention at all.

So, how does positive dog training work? As said before, it is the giving and taking away of the anticipated reward. Think about it. If you received a $10 bill every time you sat still for five minutes (but didn’t get the $10 if you moved during that time), do you think you would be inclined to sit still when someone asked you to?

Positive training is fun for you and your dog. You can teach your dog just about anything with positive training. When they obey your requests, they are give tasty treats, a toy, or attention from you. If they choose not to obey, they are told “wrong” and the food and attention are not given. You’d be amazed how quick dogs learn what behavior gets them treats and what doesn’t.

Of course, all dogs being different, you may need to “tweak” your methods here and there until they are suitable for you and your dog

Training With The Use of Punishment

A good example of “punishment-based training” is the long-standing, popular training technique using a “choke” chain or pinch collar. Dogs are given a leash correction when they make the wrong choice, and the result is an uncomfortable, often painful correction to the dog. Studies have shown that this type of correction can lead to soft tissue damage around the neck and possible damage to the trachea.

While it is true that some dogs react appropriately to the use of such aversive devices, the question becomes, are they learning? And…what are they learning? Some studies indicate that dogs trained with positive methods instead of aversive actually discover how to think through situation rather than being physically manipulated, thus they retain the information for a longer period of time.

Consider training your dog or puppy using positive training. A good start would be to attend the Michigan Humane Society’s “Positively Puppies” or “Manners for Life” class. It will not only put you on the road to having a well-behaved pet, but it will also help to strengthen the bond between you and your dog.

Information provided by Michigan Humane Society Rochester Hills, Michigan

Behavior Help Line (248)650-0127

Often it’s not scratching that gets cats into trouble, it’s what they choose to scratch that’s the problem. Providing an appropriate scratching post for your cat will save your furniture and carpet.

The Scratching Post

It is important that your scratching post be tall enough for your cat to stretch out full length on the vertical surface. If not, she will find something taller, such as the arm of your couch. Acceptable surface materials for the post are sisal (rough textured rope) or bare wood. Avoid posts that are covered in carpet. Cats are very sensitive to texture and will often use any carpet, on the post or the floor.

Your cat’s post should be in the room where she spends most of her time. If the post is in a back bedroom and your cat spends most of her day on the couch in the living room, she may not be motivated to search for the post when the couch is very handy.

When introducing a new scratching post to your cat, it’s important that the post be more appealing than other objects. Sprinkling the post with catnip or placing tasty treats on and around it will encourage your cat to use it. You may also use a toy that dangles, hold it above the post and play with your cat, encouraging her to climb the post and get the toy.

Cat boards made of corrugated cardboard and sprinkled with catnip also work well. They can be hung from doorknobs and used in the same manner as posts.

Saving Your Furniture

If your cat is already in the habit of using your furniture as a scratching post, a few preventive measures may be in order as well as introducing a scratching post. Trimming your cat’s nail every couple of weeks will dull the nail and make it harder to puncture the material. You may also check into Soft Paws, rubber caps that fit over cat’s nails and prevent destructive scratching.

Placing the scratching post in front of the area she previously use and sprinkling it with catnip will help redirect the scratching to the appropriate object. Once she is using the post you can gradually move it to an acceptable location in the room.

Use of Aversive

If all else fails, you may want to take measure to make your furniture and carpet undesirable to your cat. Placing two-sided tape or foil over the area will often deter cats from using the area. You can also drape a plastic carpet runner, upside down with the nubs facing up, over the area to deter the cat from scratching.

Shaker cans can be rattled if you find your cat using your couch as a scratching post. A shaker can is easily made by filling an empty can with a few pennies and taping the top. The noise startles the cat and interrupts the scratching. You can then redirect her to the post and praise he r when she uses it.

With a little work, you will soon be able to redirect scratching to the appropriate places and save your furniture.

Information provided by Michigan Humane SocietyRochester Hills, Michigan

Behavior Help Line (248)650-0127

Just because your pup bites probably does not mean you’ve got an aggressive or bad dog. It could simply mean you’ve got normal dog.

There are some very simple steps you can take to teach your puppy exactly what’s acceptable – and what isn’t.

Before starting this exercise, make sure your pup has a couple of quality, acceptable toys. And remember: BE CONSISTANT.

Steps to Prevent Puppy Mouthing

1. Avoid putting your hands (toes, etc.) near your puppy’s mouth or playing with your pup with your hands.

2. Play with the appropriate toy. This can be a ball, stuffed animal, squeaky toy, rope, or any other toy that your dog likes and you approve of as a chew toy.

3. If your puppy puts her mouth on you (even if it doesn’t hurt) or grabs your clothes, give a loud, high-pitched “yelp!” or “ouch!” Make sure it is loud enough to distract the puppy and make her let go.

4. As soon as the puppy is distracted (i.e. lets go of your fingers) immediately encourage the pup to play with her toy.

5. Should your puppy decide to grab your hand (foot, shirt, etc.) again, give a loud “ouch!” and redirect the pup’s attention to the toy.

6. Give lots of praise when the pup has the toy in her mouth instead of your hand.

7. For persistent mouthers, when the puppy latches on to your hand give a loud “ouch” and walk away, ignoring the pup. Ignoring means:

· Don’t pet the pup

·Don’t lecture the pup

·Don’t punish the pup

·Don’t talk to the pup

·Don’t even look at the pup

Your puppy will probably follow you around. That’s OK. Dogs are very social creatures that love to be near their people. Continue to ignore the pup, no matter how hard it is.

8. After a few minutes of ignoring your puppy, try to play with her again…with an appropriate toy. If she mouths you again, “yelp” and ignore.

Eventually, your puppy will get the idea that if she wants to play with you, she has to keep her teeth to herself!

Information provided by Michigan Humane Society Rochester Hills, Michigan

Behavior Help Line (248)650-0127

For most owners, it is easy to identify the cause of a dog’s fears. A dog that is afraid of loud noises may hear a clap of thunder, crouch near the ground, and tremble. She may urinate, her pupils may dilate, her ears flat against her head, and she may try to hide someplace.

What to Avoid

In this type of situation, do not comfort and console your dog by petting her and telling her everything will be fine. Consoling a fearful animal by petting and speaking in a soothing tone can reinforce the fearful behavior and increase her fear, i.e. she is being praise for trembling and hiding.

Tension or worry in the owner also communicates to the dog that there is something to fear. Next time she hears a boom of thunder she will undoubtedly continue to exhibit fear as the owner continues to reward her with soothing praise and stroking. It becomes a cycle as your dog becomes more afraid and may begin to extend her fears on to other things.

The same goes for forcing a dog to “face her fears” by making her accept the approach of someone or something she’s afraid of. That may result in an animal that panics and may eventually bite. She may growl a warning and when that doesn’t work she may bark. All she’s asking is that she be allowed to get use to that scary thing at her own pace. Reprimanding her for growling or barking will only teach her that she must use her last resort: a bite.

How to Help Your Dog

One way to help dogs overcome fears is through desensitization. Desensitization begins with a low level stimulus similar to whatever the dog is afraid of, then increasing the stimulus in stages until the dog is no longer fearful.

Here is an example of the desensitization process for a dog afraid of thunder:

· Play the taped sound of a thunderstorm at the very lowest audible level and take your dog into another room, away from the speakers. Have your dog sit, lay down, or do a trick. Reward your dog when she does what you ask.

· Once the dog is comfortable with the “storm” at that level, turn the volume up very slightly and continue working with your dog on commands to distract her attention from the noise in the other room.

· Again, if the dog is comfortable, turn the volume up a little bit more and repeat the “trick for reward” routine.

· As long as the dog is not showing any signs of fear, continue to turn up the volume in small increments and work with the command/reward sequence in another room.

· Once the volume can be increased to the level of a real storm, and the dog is comfortable in another room, turn the level down about one third what it was and work with your dog in the same room as the speakers, again asking for sits, downs, etc., and rewarding with food or favorite toys.

· Begin again to slowly increase the volume with the dog in the same room, repeating the sit/down routine with rewards.

Eventually, your dog should be able to be in the same room as the “thunderstorm” without showing any signs of fear. Remember to go slowly and don’t try to accomplish more than one volume level at a time. It could take weeks to go from one level to the next, it just depends on the extent of your dogs fear.

Pay attention to your dog’s reactions at all times. If your dog shows any sign of fear at any stage of the desensitization process, stop immediately and go back to the previous step.

When to Desensitize Your Dog

This process works well in teaching fearful dogs to accept things they’re afraid of. For it to work effectively, though, it is important to avoid whatever is causing the fear during the desensitizing process. That can be difficult. If you are working specifically with thunderstorm problems, start the process in the winter months, when storms are least likely to occur.

This type of desensitizing can work with other fears as well, including strangers, babies, people in uniform, etc. Remember not to force your pet to accept something she is not comfortable with. Develop a plan and take small steps. The benefit of taking your time can be long lasting.

If your dog’s fear of people has led to aggression, it is critical that you seek help from a behaviorist before starting a desensitizing program.

Information provided by Michigan Humane Society Rochester Hills, Michigan

Behavior Help Line (248)650-0127